Ponders End to Stamford Hill
Thursday January 12th 2012
The 377, our first route of the day (Jo had had her planning
hat on – similar to the sorting hat but more useful), had left us at Ponders
End all ready to cross the road and leave Ponders End (forever) on the
southbound Route 349, which proved to be a somewhat dispiriting experience.
First sight was a Wetherspoons pub called the Picture Palace Pub; usually they
have a line of history but this one only explains the beers and gives photos of
the quite nice inside. The outside was curiously nondescript.
Further along is the Boundary House pub, doubtless a
reference to the boundary ditch, now more likely a culverted sewer / former river which is a very common fate for
these old waterways. Also fairly
charming was the row of villas all named for trees – Willow/Pine/Poplar/Chestnut/Cyprus
(sic) and alongside the Conservative Working Men’s Club, something which would
have been considered a contradiction in terms back in the day (on which
subject, by the time we had reached the end of this route the poverty on view was
such as to bring to the fore all revolutionary tendencies).
Back to the bus route, which was gathering more and more
passengers below but as many were quite disabled the upstairs remained fairly
empty. This route offers little novelty and rolls on down in pretty much a
straight line from Lower to Upper Edmonton via Edmonton Green, familiar to us
because of its canopied and efficient bus station.
The shop signs show that the route segues from a Turkish and
Eastern ethnicity to an ever broader range of nationalities, but the properties
visible along the main road became increasingly sad or derelict. Clearly the blight engendered by the whole ‘Will Spurs move
to the Olympic Stadium’ followed by last August’s riots have left Tottenham
looking even more depressed. Many of the shops and blocks were empty, some
possibly being squatted and certainly attacked by pigeons close to the Alpha
Road turning. Haringey has a difficult borough to manage and was trying to give
a positive feel to what remains of the High Street with its ‘We Love Tottenham
‘ posters but it felt a bit of struggle. There was also a rather enigmatic street sculpture of a horse, and a cat?
Spurs’ stadium and the shop alongside are showing their age
as well, but the club’s futile bidding for the Olympic Stadium cannot have
helped local commerce. Ironically on the day we passed Spurs, having played
their match in hand, had just gone 2nd in the league and were doing
as well as they ever have for very many years in the wilderness. Close to the
Tottenham Community Sports centre there was a car boot sale in progress and
very well attended too – adults with no other place to go during the day. The fact that the Aldi store has gone as
well seemed the finishing touch.
By the time we reached Seven Sisters things were smartening
up a little – this is a very busy thoroughfare with at least eight bus routes
passing through and at one point a dedicated bus lane to keep things moving.
There were some lighter moments along the way. A dry
cleaners promising ‘No Mark Dry Cleaning’, ‘The Elbow Room Pub’ and some
light-spirited graffiti in anti-capitalist mode. The route also includes a Blue Plaque, which is fairly
self-explanatory honouring local explorer John Williams.
This was a very straight, uncomplicated, double-decker
north/south route with few twiddles and no single portion of the route which
was not covered by other buses, so combined with the faces of the successive
high streets a rather lowering experience.
I hope when I come to blog this later in the year things
will be looking up for Tottenham – the place rather than the club.
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