Monday October 19th 2009
Author Note: It being 2 years nine months
since we rode this route we have lost the photos. I have plugged
some gaps by borrowing photos off other routes which cross this one but gaps remain. If we find them
we will add them later.
Our previous journey (the Number 36) had left us just
opposite New Cross Bus garage, and we used the facilities at the New Cross
Sainsbury’s - a site very much designed for the motorist with the need to
cross a vast car park before you can enter the store and use its facilities –
there are plans afoot to re-design this area and bring it down to street level,
incorporating more Housing.
Refreshed, we
crossed the road and boarded a double decker 343, which surprisingly for the
first third of its journey goes through some comparative back streets. It
starts by climbing up Pepys Road (which locals used to be in the habit of
calling ‘Pepp-is’). The bus is the only permitted vehicle to do this, as there
is some ferocious one wayery round here. Then up and over (Telegraph Hill ), passing both the Haberdasher Aske’s schools once we were past the park This is a substantial
conservation area built in a planned way to include fine villas, schools and
churches on a patch that was once a market garden until the railways came.
From there the route passes through the very large Honor Oak
Estate, still in the process of being upgraded, and past Avignon Road where
Mary had once lived with a deranged landlady who read all her mail and reported
back to her parents so she eventually fled to another flat in North
London. We hope the landlady stopped
taking tenants. By the time it leaves
Lewisham borough behind the 343 turns through the older bits of Nunhead and
close to Stuart Road. Mary pointed out
her allotment on a good south facing slope in Elland Road. From there the 343
skirts the edge of Rye Hill Park and Peckham Common, arriving at the crossroads
junction formerly known as King’s on the Rye, and then up and into Rye Lane –
this was a Monday afternoon and actually very quiet as some days there is no
room left to walk so busy are the pavements.
The ‘Co-Op’ apartments are about the only new building round
here and they are in a thirties tribute style and the rest of Rye Lane dates
from just about every decade. The bus then turns left into Peckham Road,
dominated now by the new Harris Academy, and a newly demolished pub. The bus
does not stick to this main road, however, but works its way through the Aylsham Estate and to Burgess Park, once
an oasis for Peckham but now in need of something of a face-lift. The former Camberwell Public Baths adjacent
to Wells Way library are of course famed for the huge tile mural of the
Camberwell Beauty butterfly which came from the
demolished gummed paper works of Samuel Jones. This site offers a closer look at what else is worth stopping for round here. Special mention for the Chumleigh
Gardens Almshouses a hidden gem with café!
This bus alone services the huge Aylesbury Estate but today there were not many takers. The Charlie Chaplin centre looked deserted and the Heygate estate now emptied – so we eventually arrived at Elephant & Castle (we need a tick-off list to count down the 26 routes passing through). Unusually the driver was hooting round the roundabout (perhaps he recognised some-one) before we drove up to the Borough complete with mis-spelt signs telling us of roadworks in Marshalsea, which made us think of ' Little Dorrit'.
The courts are close by in Newington causeway and we pushed
on stopping only in the street for London Bridge station, and not up and down
where most buses go. By now it was clearly lunch-time with all the office
workers out and about to mingle with additional tourists heading for all the
delights along here – Hays Galleria, HMS Belfast, the tacky London Dungeons
beloved of school groups and the curious ‘Britain at War’ – I always wonder why
pay when you get the same or better for free at the Imperial war Museum.
Anyway the bus stops behind City Hall – a name we struggle
with as it’s NOT the town hall for the city of London but merely the
administrative headquarters for the Mayor, who is Mayor for greater London?
Anyway this part of London and the river offer unequalled photo opportunities
to the bus passenger and pedestrian alike and this 343 only took 50
minutes.
PS Apparently said Mayor and others at City Hall receive
more complaints about this service than many others, and I have to confess I
have in my time stood alone and friendless in Frendsbury Road waiting over ½ hour for this particular
number – when I don’t want it of course it runs in positive convoys…
PPS Quite a bit has changed in the nearly 3 years since we
rode this route:
Boris has been re-elected as mayor, but you knew that.
Boris has been re-elected as mayor, but you knew that.
The roadworks and traffic re-alignment at Elephant &
Castle have finished and make negotiating the double roundabouts easier.
The Heygate Estate is very empty, and the Aylesbury
partially and both beloved of filmmakers who wish for a gritty location, to
which the remaining tenants object, not wishing to be portrayed as crime
hotspots. Some of the promised
rebuilding is finished – ‘Strata’, notably – but other sites continue to
languish
The Belfast has been closed and re-opened (following
unplanned collapse of gangplank) The Imperial War Museum has been open but is
about to close (planned rebuilding works for the first half of 2013)
Peckham has fairly continuous roadworks, the results of
which are never very clear!
Burgess Park has been getting a make-over which is nearly
complete.
John Lanchester has written a novel called ‘Capital’ whose
characters live round New Cross…in Pepys Road .
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