Tower Bridge
Thursday January
19 2017
For some
reason (probably TFL) we thought the entrance to this ‘experience’/museum was
on the South side of Tower Bridge but the start is actually at the base of the
North Tower. Though very cold it was in fact a beautiful day so the camera had
been working away capturing the full tourist experience from alongside the
‘Belfast’ (of which more later).
Tower Bridge
is one of several maintained by the City of London aka the Corporation and
hence is well emblazoned with the city’s crest and decorated with its limited
palate – red and white. It does cost
but there are .reasonable reductions for the usual concessions
There is a
clear trail to follow and a lift takes you to the top floor, which is a
spacious lobby to the walkways. By way of introduction there is a collage of
early film clips of ‘heavy traffic’ in London – because horse drawn vehicles
take up so much space and are less disciplined than more modern vehicles the
traffic shots round London’s pinch points – the Strand, Hyde Park Corner and
the bridges – look every bit as busy as today. London needed a new bridge to
relieve the strain elsewhere and also one that allowed tall ships as far up the
Thames as possible. This was the brief and several proposals were made. The
first filmed ‘lift’ was in 1903.
After this
brief introductory film, the screen surrounded by some random Victorian
artefacts to give you the period feel (the smell of old wood, iron and oil is
enough to make you realise this is not a new structure), you are encouraged to
set off along the East walkway, where between the multiple metal struts there
are extensive views down the river, and as this is the ‘last bridge’ for the
time being, the view is clear – the river also widens considerably from this
point.
The walkways
are the exhibition space – to the right are WORLD BRIDGES, so a collection of
large colour photos of the world’s iconic bridges, old and new, and their vital
statistics. We had fun spotting those we
had visited and I am sure it is an added attraction for their many foreign
visitors. To the left are small illustrated fact boards about the planning
& structure and material of the bridge and its context – trade and commerce
round the pool and docks of London.
As we said
two weeks ago in the Maths Gallery, architects would be nowhere without their
structural engineers and both are fully honoured here. Interestingly the
engineer was J Wolfe Barry, son of the Charles Barry who designed the Houses of
Parliament. We imagined the twin tower design was chosen to honour the Tower of
London on the neighbouring bank. The bridge joins the south London borough of
Southwark and the north east Tower Hamlets. The City’s architect was Sir Horace
Jones who in fact died before completion and there were five contractors
involved. The towers are actually steel structures, clad in bricks and then
Portland Stone, and the upper walkways are in part to brace the lower sections though
also supposed to offer pedestrians an alternative crossing when the bridge was
open – however this option never proved very popular and they were closed in
1910. Once the walkways were in place construction could start on the bascules
which arrived in 12 metre sections.
One of the
information boards that caught our attention was the use of Thameside as
‘beaches’. The King was very keen that London’s poor children should be offered
a beach experience and this tradition continued until someone realised that the
swimming was dangerous because of poor water quality!
The views
from up here ate stupendous and well worth the admission price alone, but of
course the selling point is the glass walkways.
A small section of the walkway is heavy duty glass and therefore you can
look straight down on the river or passing traffic – it is a vertiginous
feeling and though we coped it was quite a relief to have the solid floor
again. According to one of the very pleasant staff, who are all well informed
about the exhibits, a previous school party had done hand stands and back flips
along the glass walkway.
Reaching the
other end there is the equivalent lobby and film screen, this time with a
computer simulation of the construction process. The tour then takes you back
along the west facing walkway, where
the Bridge and Information boards continue. The view this way takes in the next
three bridges or so and much of London’s famous skyline – old and new plus
excellent views of the Tower and the Pool of London. Jo had been working on the
‘Belfast’ when the ship was towed away to be refitted, and she remembered how
the five little tugs had manoeuvred her under the walkway with the radar mast
only just fitting beneath – it was a very slow operation. Somewhat to our
surprise the bridge opens 3 times a day on average as even as Londoners it’s
quite rare to catch it!
Still
enjoying the views we completed the walkway, a bit more blasé about the glass
floor second time around; you are then turned back to the south tower from
where you are encouraged to walk down the impressive metal stairways. A recent
addition to enliven your descent is various relief plastic plaques reminding
you of London’s riverside buildings – we were somewhat surprised to see ‘City
Hall’ the Mayor’s HQ referred to as the Armadillo ?
Back down at
street level the trail leads into the engine rooms complete with that warm
slightly oily metallic smell. As far as
we understood it the bascules – the two opening halves of the bridge worked through a counter-balance – still work
on hydraulic (water) power but presumably electrically driven whereas back in
the day you were looking at steam power. This is the same kind of machinery and
doubtless gives the same kind of joy to its enthusiasts as steam trains. The
boilers are bigger (very handsome black cast iron) and were heated by coal
brought along the river and tipped from a chain of handy trugs. When the water
is hot enough it turns to steam which powers the pistons – there is even a
complicated (when I say complicated it means I don’t really understand it)
system of power storage as of course the bridge is opened on demand and is not
in constant use as the pistons driving a train engine would be.
The
machinery has been beautifully preserved and presented and the information
boards are multi-lingual and easy to follow.
There are even small scale models at the end which you can operate.
The exit is
of course via the gift shop which offered a range of models of the bridge to
build, though interestingly not the Lego one. The museum attraction is
understandably popular with tourists as the views and walk are worth the price
alone, but there is enough easily digested information to detain a visitor who
wants a little more history and context.
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