12 Holland Park Road
London W8 4PX
Wednesday February 18th 2015
After three weeks spent
underground courtesy of Brunel, Florence Nightingale and Churchill it
was good to be above ground even though conservation levels of lighting mean
daylight is only permitted in one or two rooms. Jo and her friend Pam had
arrived via the Overground to Kensington Olympia, whereas I had finished my
Jubilee Line trip with a ride on the Roastmaster Route 9 which takes a scenic
line from Green Park. No photography allowed so you will have to make do with
what is available via links and my purple prose. Here is the Museum’s own website.
The outside of the house is less than exciting and is that
typical red brick with white stone trimming favoured in this part of
Kensington. Lord Leighton, with a substantial private income as well as what the art earned him, had it built specifically to his designs (underground swimming
pool anyone?) which included a tower, studio and library. He was president of
the Royal Academy and entertained the like-minded and influential of his day.
Unlike many properties nowadays there is little mention of the army of servants
needed to keep the ceramic collection dust-free.
It is run by Kensington & Chelsea who do make a charge
to visit but with the usual concessions
plus those for Art Pass holders
and National Trust members. The information and booklets provided –
large and small print – is exemplary.
Our visit also coincided with a special exhibition showcasing
the Perez Simon Collection a Spanish born,
Mexico resident,
telecommunications Billionaire connoisseur collector (phew) and thanks to him many works of art whose
painters would have been frequent visitors to the house are now exhibited again
in the UK. If you are an aficionado of the Pre-Raphaelites (so there’s a
Rossetti, a Millais and a Burne-Jones and the latter’s pupil, John Melhuish Strudwick
whose work we quite rated) and the later Aesthetic movement painters then this
is the place for you though by the end Jo and I were somewhat saturated with too many damsels in diaphanous
dresses dancing around in a variety of ‘exotic’ locations, usually Biblical,
Classical or occasionally Arthurian. Sometimes they came with their own poems,
the artists having been inspired by the works of Tennyson and Meredith. The
flimsy clothes that Leighton in particular painted have a gauzy, and not quite
tawdry magnificence which in the end earned him a lot of money, popularity and
a peerage, and doubtless hung over the mantels of eminent Victorians; not that
they thought of themselves as such. Though as Jo said while Leighton and some of
his followers were painting ladies, France had moved on to Impressionism and in
the early 20th Century saw the rise of other UK artists such as Nash
perhaps.
Without photos I will not dwell on the paintings other than
to tell you the strange story of the ‘Roses of Heliogabolus’ which is showcased
in a room of its own, honoured with a bespoke perfume devised by Jo Malone for
the occasion so the experience becomes a multi-sense one. Heliogabolous was a young debauched Roman
emperor, who ascended to power thanks to the machinations of his mother and
behaved much like a combination of Nero and Caligula – the picture shows him
entertaining some ‘ladies of the night’ (not unlike some disgraced French
politicians) and other guests and then smothering them – to death – in flowers.
The story cites violets but Alma-Tadema chose roses and had a supply imported
from the South of France so he could paint them accurately.
It’s very pink.
The painting was originally bought by Sir John Aird, founder
of the Scottish engineering firm who (apart from a musical quartet of rather embarrassed
musicians) is one of the few males to feature in the exhibition.
The real joy of this visit is the house itself, and specifically
the downstairs Arab Hall and upstairs Studio complete with a huge North facing
window – having worried that Dorothy Dene should have somewhere warm to change into and out of her
gauzy garments – she was the long time muse of Lord Leighton and was at least
rewarded with a substantial legacy on his death – I was relieved to learn from
this Guardian Article that indeed she did, as well as her own “discreet” (i.e. don’t
scandalise the other visitors ) staircase.
The main glory of the house is the downstairs – though Arab/Moorish
inspired with possibly a Pompeii type floor Lord Leighton had clearly collected
an impressive number of Iznik tiles and you will know how fond I am of those
from our visit to the Florence Nightingale Museum , where they were used as ‘set-dressing’
. Apart from the floral ones there are beautifully calligraphed tablets
(scripts from the Qu’ran) set over the doors. Here you find the real thing in
abundance. Each fireplace and door frame is unique and halfway up the stairs a
glass cabinet with a series of antique Iznik plates each more lovely than the
next. To complete the suite of downstairs rooms there is additional tiling from
Walter Crane and William de Morgan – reminding us we need to visit ‘his’ museum
in Wandsworth.
There is a modest bedroom and the Silk Room also. Some other
curioisites include a replica of the couch used in many of the paintings, with classical
legs one end and Egyptian ones the other, and the papers pertaining to Lord
Leighton’s commission in the Artists’ Rifles – fellow members included Millais –
and hard to believe this – Rossetti: not one for taking orders I would have
thought.
In need of something more robust we left after an
interesting two hours; a worthwhile visit but
something of an ‘acquired taste’ we did not entirely share…
something of an ‘acquired taste’ we did not entirely share…
in the same area, don't forget to visit Linley Sambourne's Hose :
ReplyDeletehttp://www.rbkc.gov.uk/subsites/museums/18staffordterrace1.aspx
I love your blog, I read it for years !
House, obviously...
ReplyDeleteThis is an incredible house. It blew me away.Thanks for reminding me how great it is.
ReplyDelete