1 Reading Lane
London E8 1GQ
Wednesday January 7 2015
HAPPY NEW YEAR – our followers may well have wondered
whether we had faded away as we have never left such a long gap (3 weeks)
between blog entries but we were back in full force today with an additional
visitor, Mary’s sister who happens to be a Hackney resident. When bus blogging
we always had a few routes up our sleeve to post while resting but not so with
the museums, which in some cases have rather special opening times. This year
we were not so much resting as recovering from a range of heavy colds that
could not possibly be flu as we were all fully immunised?? TMI.
Hackney Museum is part of the Town Hall Square (plenty of
room to demonstrate out there if necessary) and is in a glass building beside
the newly cleaned Town hall. The Museum
is fully accessible in every sense of the word and was designed to appeal to
all ages and interests – I would defy you not to find something to hold your
attention.
The ground floor and spacious exhibits are arranged
thematically rather than purely chronologically, with topics where historical
events, artefacts and records can be linked to Hackney today through photos/
films/ interviews (several phone lines are posted round key exhibits) and some
hands on things for not just younger visitors. A small scale Number 38 bus (old
style) takes pride of place next to an actual old fire cart (engine would be
too flattering a description). The most valuable and probably oldest artefact
is the log boat, displayed underfoot under glass, which the early settlers
would have used to get along the River Lea, an important route for the borough.
Another treasure taking pride of place was a trove of gold coins found only in 2007. The Sulzbacher family arrived in Hackney in the late Thirties, refugees from Nazi Germany – Martin was interned in Australia (!) while his wife and four children were sent to the Isle of Man, leaving his parents and brother plus family in their Hackney home. The latter were killed by a 1940 bomb though Martin and his immediate family were later re-united. One jar of gold coins, buried at the onset of war, was recovered in 1951, but the second one not found until 2007 by which time Martin had died. However, the rest of the family did inherit and donated a gleaming gold coin – actually a US Dollar – to the Museum.
Another treasure taking pride of place was a trove of gold coins found only in 2007. The Sulzbacher family arrived in Hackney in the late Thirties, refugees from Nazi Germany – Martin was interned in Australia (!) while his wife and four children were sent to the Isle of Man, leaving his parents and brother plus family in their Hackney home. The latter were killed by a 1940 bomb though Martin and his immediate family were later re-united. One jar of gold coins, buried at the onset of war, was recovered in 1951, but the second one not found until 2007 by which time Martin had died. However, the rest of the family did inherit and donated a gleaming gold coin – actually a US Dollar – to the Museum.
Other treasures donated by former residents form part of the Chalmers Collection, a few items of which are displayed within a context
of replica interiors of Georgian &
Victorian Housing. In the 1800s the
former fields of Hackney came to be known as the ‘home of the clerks’ and Mr
Chalmers was one such (an incomer from Scotland) and bequeathed his art etc
collection to Hackney with an annuity allowing them to commission new works of
art – and indeed the more up to date works by current Hackney artists are
equally on display.
For many years the borough was barely built up – in fact it
was renowned for its market gardens (to supply ever hungry Londoners) and as an
off shoot from these, more exotic nurseries too. The Loddiges, for example – George and Conrad,
whose father had settled from Germany
– ran a nursery near Mare Street and after their business
finished the exotic specimens are still to be found round the borough, Abney
cemetery being one of the many places where their non-European plants still survive.
I’m not sure the Loddiges were fleeing persecution but what
the exhibitions make very clear is how many of Hackney’s residents past and present
came searching for a new life with ‘A Safe House & Free Speech’. The borough has long been
home to generations of the Jewish community, the more devout of whom have
settled round Casenove Street in Stamford Hill.
Other seekers after refuge included the large group of
dissenters who were apparently not allowed to practise their particular brand
of non-conformist Christianity within London itself – thus Hackney provided a
safe place for them to live and worship more freely at the requisite 5 mile distance.
Daniel Defoe was one such notable
dissenter, and he was apt to ridicule
both the established church and some of the more fervent anti-establishment
followers for which he was charged and
literally pilloried – that is put in the stocks.
The following centuries saw successive dissenters later
known as refugees each leaving a legacy in the borough – for instance the
French Hospital or the Vietnamese Centre.
They came looking for looking for refuge but also for work and by the 19th
and 20th centuries there were small workshops available to join or
even set up yourself. An interesting section looks at some of the relics of
local industry – hot metal or old-fashioned type setting and dressmaking have
long flourished, and before their trade/product was seen as barbaric furriers
also thrived in Hackney; then there are machines used by hatters and most
interestingly you can see how long it would have taken you to assemble a match-box:
less than a certain number within the hour and you were likely to go hungry or
lose the roof over your head. Shoe-making
was another popular local trade.
Talking of roof over your head – a corner of the museum is
devoted to the changing housing needs and provisions within the borough, from
the clerks’ houses of the early 1800s to the 19th century villas –
later sub-divided into rentable (then more latterly sellable flats) – to the
impressive amount of local authority provision : a replica kitchen from a GLC
era flat is on display and explanations provided of how the insanitary ‘slum
dwellings’ of earlier construction were either bombed or destroyed to be
replaced by flats in the sky, themselves later razed to the ground. This website gives a range of local views on
the flats old and new.
The ‘No Choice – No Voice’ section looks at the most dispossessed
who have passed through Hackney ; while no-one is pretending that racism within
the borough no longer exists earlier overseas residents did far worse – the
early black residents, usually brought over as slaves/servants had no rights,
and particular other groups fared no better. Lascar sailors were often
abandoned after their ships had docked until the East India Company was obliged to provide a shelter for their
former ‘employees’ who helped create the wealth of Empire. Likewise exploited
were the Ayahs, Indian nannies for UK children who found themselves brought
over with the returning families and then left in limbo if not re-employed.
Another group of women without which the National Health
Service would have crumbled were the large contingent of Caribbean nurses –
recruited specially in the 1950s. The Museum has devoted a special exhibition
to this group of formidable practitioners, many of whom have
now reached retirement age. They of course have a voice which can be heard here
at the displays, which is more than some of the patients of the former
‘madhouses’ of Hackney had – once ‘locked up’ (and you could be for little more
than giving birth illegitimately) you
had few rights and no voice.
The one thing I would have found useful was a large scale
map – old or new – to locate some of the places mentioned. For those of you who
are interested in more statistics here is a Greater London website, which looks
at certain well being statistics for the borough The only map on display was rescued from a corner at Dalston
Junction – one of the boroughs busiest crossroads – where it may have confused
many folk who are more accustomed to looking at a map with North at the top
rather than randomly out to the side: maybe it made more sense when in place
but I’m not sure?
Part of the heritage of the borough was also the advent of
transport – for Hackney this was mainly
buses as its underground stations are sparse – so the model of the bus and an
early bus map (nostalgia here for the LWB) underlined the importance of links
to work and play and further afield.
No comments:
Post a Comment