Mark’s Gate to Barking (Gascoigne Estate)
Thursday October 18 2019
We were certainly, as the ?Bible puts it,
‘unto the East’ today having started at Whitechapel for the District Line to
Hornchurch which took us to Collier Row (a bus route in the 200s so we may
never live that long) and from there a mere 5 stops to somewhere called The
City Pavilion – a rather odd name for somewhere virtually in a field but it
seemed to be a sort of civic community centre hosting events as diverse as the
Panto and a Psychic Evening. From there
it was a short walk past the Whale Roundabout to Mark’s Gate and the start of the
62, a low number bus for a fairly, if you pardon the expression, remote route.
We had noticed the ploughed fields and the
bus stop called Furze Farm so thanks to Hidden London for this entry
explaining the origins of the area. Whalebone Road to which we were alerted by
the well …whale bones … at the roundabout is such an evocative name with somewhat fuzzy origins - the consensus seems to be that a whale was stranded in the Thames and the bones
from its carcass formed an arch which has variously been along the road in
front of a house now demolished and most recently at the Borough (this route
lies entirely within the London Borough of Barking and Dagenham – LBBD) Museum
. So whales have been going astray up the Thames for nearly 400 years as
another victim died off Greenhithe recently – perhaps they come to London to
die?
The whale theme continued when we crossed
the A12 at the Moby Dick Junction and passed the huge golf complex where the crazy
course featured a whale and a pirate ship...
There is also a proper course and it all seems very reasonably priced and
lacking in pretension, and of course you are promised ‘ a whale of a time’…
This road crossing signals the route
arriving in Chadwell Heath, where the 62 is joined by the 362; most of this
route was residential – houses rather than blocks of flats – and Chadwell Heath
offered some local shops: Scruffy’s Dog Grooming anyone? We were not quite clear what Vatra
Romanescu might be – clearly more than just a shop, and some research
indicates a nationalist /right wing organisation. This was not our only Romanian encounter of
the day as three lads (should have been in school?) briefly joined us on the
top deck where we had been alone – and asked us whether we could drive , and
seemed amazed when Jo disclosed her age , and the length of time she had held a
licence.
The Blesma organisation on the other hand
is NOT Romanian but a charity helping limbless ex-servicemen, which has in fact
moved from here in the past few weeks, though their logo is still atop a
building. The other key sight of
Chadwell Heath is the Eva Hart Pub, still looking very nice, which commemorates
her – a young survivor of the Titanic, and also Mary
Wollstonecraft , born locally. We have
Wetherspoons to thank for this local history.
This was in contrast to the deserted’White Lion’ at Chadwell Heath.
After a couple of bends we got onto another straight stretch of road through what is essentially the Becontree Estate – as this website has it, the size and vision of building so many homes was revolutionary and this route only passes through part of it. Post Thatcher’s ‘right to buy’ you can see where homes have been ‘improved’ or at least customised.
At this point I asked had we not been to
the Valence Museum (there was a sign to the park of that name) and Jo said she
had no recollection which is a shame as she wrote the entry!
The museum also
celebrates the social housing. Though shops had been included in the original specifications for
the Estate leisure facilities less so, so LBBD had more recently added a Youth
Zone near to Parsloes Park, itself a LBBD resource that was created at the same
time as the Estate but has had its facilities updated since.
For much of this this stretch the 62 is the
only route; there is of course Becontree Station, another stop on the District
Line: one way or another we passed several of these outlying stations today all
similar in design, many on a bridge above the platforms , but all sadly in need
of some repointing and spruced up paintwork. This was in contrast to the earlier Chadwelll
Heath a TFL Rail station which had seen some TLC.
Though we passed under the overhang of the
elevated A13 the 62 route stays north doing a detour to Upney – another residential
stretch with many overhanging trees scraping the bus roof enthusiastically. There was barking Bus garage too, where the drivers changed.
Once past Upney’s station the focus of the
traffic, shops and institutions became firmly Barking and its regenerating
(it’s not quite there) town centre with tired looking shops and shopping
centres and many new office/shopping and above all residential facilities springing
up. With a school named after it I wondered how much of Barking Abbey remained
…
The Barking
Abbey Ruins are part of the larger area of parkland that is now called Abbey
Green. The location is that of the original buildings of Barking Abbey, founded
in 666 AD, until it was demolished shortly after 1541 AD. The only surviving
building of this period is the Curfew Tower, which is now the gateway to the
adjacent St Margaret's Church, but was originally a gatehouse to the Abbey.
Most of the remaining ruins are now buried and hidden
So not that much then.. Most of the few
remaining passengers got off as we passed the station and shopping hub of
Barking after which the bus, along with several other routes, has to contend
with a contra flow while a large residential development is ‘finished off’ (this
usually means a couple of trees, some gravel and pots) and then pushes on for
four stops to terminate on the Gascoigne estate , which clearly pre-dates most of
the current building boom. There have
been several noticeable changes in Barking since project 1 so it will be
interesting to see how far the transformation is planned to continue.
Our trip had taken an hour – it was not the
most thrilling of journeys but went from a whale to fishes a reminder of former industry from the green belt farmland through well-established communities
into Barking which is clearly trying to be a major residential and commercial
area.
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