Finsbury Park Hub to Battersea Bridge
(South Side)
Thursday January 17 2019
Note the new names in this – ‘hub’ for bus
station and ‘South Side’ for Parkgate Street . However same old route on a
sturdy double decker that went from North to South West barely batting an
eyelid – so to speak.
We had used the facilities at Finsbury Park
Station remembering they are on a platform where the trains head north. As the
bus was just leaving as we returned to street level we leapt on without taking
any photos. Jo had just about recovered from freezing to death while I got lost
behind Finsbury Square trying to find the 153 which brought us here – it had
wrinkled its way through the back streets of Islington. The 19 was to go large.
So it was London Calling as Kevin
told us last time we took this route.
Here’s a link to the track he referenced if
you want to follow it up
‘The Twelve Pins’ which is the first pub
you see in exiting the bus station looks well cared for. I thought it might be
a variation of Ninepins , the old pub game, while Jo thought it might be a
reference to the nearby Cotton works building and something to do with weaving
– both wrong. It is named after a mountain range in Ireland and is one of
several pubs round here for Arsenal supporters – like the Arsenal barber
further along the Blackstock Road. Having spent the up trip admiring the pared
down lines of Islington’s Georgian builds we could see these homes were of
later design. Interspersed were some
independent shops like ‘La Maison des
Chiens ‘ for cat and dog grooming. I was quite excited by The Walnut Club until I found out it was
a tanning parlour – turning an artificial nut brown not being my hobby of choice.
The workaday aspects of Finsbury Park give
way to a more gentrified Highbury with a couple of handsome terraces and The Loxfords, a former mansion that had
belonged to the Dents Family of glove
manufacturers After they moved on it was used as a children’s home
and Family Centre – then the site was purchased and developed into housing but
the handsome frontage maintained.
As the diversity of Highbury gives way to a
busier thoroughfare we entered Highbury Corner still undergoing its transformation. It feels unending and painful but will
presumably benefit the pedestrians and cyclists amongst us.
The 19 carries on down Upper Street to the
Angel, passing all the usual and occasionally changing delights of Islington –
the King’s Head and Almeida theatres , many places to eat and a whole shop
outlet for Le Creuset cookware! We made good progress for a section of travel
that can often be slow. ‘The Dead Dolls
House’ seemed to be a very unprepossessing name for a venue – as that is
what it is – so we preferred to think about Sir Hugh Myddleton with little
dolphins at his feet to remind us he was
the inspiration behind the New River – Islington has also given him some rather
jolly spring primulas.
Once we had crossed the busy East/West
route we were heading down past Sadlers Wells with its newer extension. In fact
this part of Holborn/Clerkenwell seems to have become something of an area for
dance education and the Urdang Academy has taken over Finsbury Town hall. The
bus passes the narrower façade of Mount Pleasant, which presents rather sweetly
as a post office with all the sorting and distribution facilities behind.
The Theobalds Road is a hybrid of what
remains of old bits of small scale industry, service or otherwise and fringe
academia. Having found the Anaesthetists’ Museum rather soporific we hope their
training HQ along here is a little livelier. This passage through London seemed a good way
of avoiding Lower Oxford Street
We joined the stream of traffic that snakes
slowly round the one way system from Holborn to the West End – I am never sure
why it is slow apart from being single lane but I want to blame ongoing
Elizabeth Line works at Tottenham Court Road! The slowness did at least give us
time to appreciate how lovely is the old fascia of the Umbrella shop. There is
a great temptation to go in and request a sword stick perhaps?
Shaftesbury Avenue reminds one quite how
many musicals are running in the West End which must be cheering for all those
dancers in training.
Piccadilly has road works too and Jo said
there was significant water in the hole perhaps indicating a main had been
ruptured? Trouble free we continued past Green Park to Hyde Park Corner – by
now the upright haka figures of the NZ
War memorial were looking like old friends – I almost expect them to wave to
us. We also got a full frontal view of Apsley House before turning down
Knightsbridge for …Knightsbridge. Once an
entrance to Hyde Park Corner station then for some time Pizza on the Park it
has now morphed, at some expense I would guess, into the Wellesley Hotel.
The shops here and when the 19 turns off at
Knightsbridge station down Sloane Street are of the sort where goods are not
priced in the window and if you need to ask the price you can’t afford them.
Also we were following a Porsche, but it was no faster than the bus.
Between the venerable mansion blocks there
are some handsome squares too, notably Cadogan Place, but all locked so no
public access. The Cadogan Family still
own much of the land round here and from the bus you can see that Cadogan Hall
takes a whole block – conceived initially for Christian Science worship it was
converted and can now seat nearly 1000 people for a range of musical events.
There is more culture round the corner in
the shape of the Royal Court Theatre and both are well served by Sloane Square
station. On the whole this part of
London is not generously provided with train or tube lines and this one is the
last for a while. Once round the roundabout that is Sloane Square we headed quite smartly along the King's Road before turning left into Beaufort Street, very uniform in its red brick
fullness though difficult to capture on a photo when driving straight into the
sun.
We enjoyed crossing Battersea Bridge
which gave us a lovely view of pretty Albert – one bridge up. The 19 stops just
one short bus stop south of the river having bravely made its way through
several significant entertainment and shopping streets and taking all comers in
its stride. We did enjoy it.
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