King William Walk
London SE10 9HT
Thursday November 10
2016
Teeth better but cold
worse we met in maritime Greenwich with of course the DLR station named for
today’s expedition. Sadly, or gladly depending on your fondness for sea travel (not),
we were not to leave dry land today. I still have memories of an early school
outing to the Cutty Sark in what must have been the early days of her
being saved. She opened to the public in 1957 and we must have been taken a
couple of years later – my abiding memory is of lots of tea and wool and
rigging and the fact she won a race back from Australia. In the Fifties the
ship was in a dry dock and exposed to the elements without benefit of much to
preserve her timbers which therefore started to crack and bulge – hence the
massive restoration which started in 2000, delayed further by an electrical
fire but re-opened by the Queen ( for the second time) in 2012. Now the slender
sleek hull (it was this streamlining design which gave her the speed) is
encased in steel and well supported by struts.
That is where we
started our visit: on the lowest level (loos and café) to wander round the
clipper’s hull – there were boards to explain her restoration but as it was
very quiet we were told about it by an enthusiastic ‘crew member’ before he was
distracted by a group of infant visitors. The impression of being under the sea
is enhanced by the animated mural of a fishy sea scape running round the edge.
The audio visuals explain her class – a Clipper because she goes ‘at a clip’
and her name borrowed by her Scots owner from a Robbie Burns ballad. This version has a translation as I certainly
needed it. The witch Nannie Dee cannot cross the water
but is pursuing a rider in a ‘cutty sark’ or short shift which was supposed to
add speed. You only need to look at the
ship to see that for her size she has a very slim hull but a large area for
sails, all to make her quicker.
At the front end what
from a distance looks like a party of brightly clothed guests turns out to be a
collection of figureheads, recognisable amongst them Garibaldi, Florence
Nightingale (women well outnumber men), and Abraham Lincoln, who must have been
turning on his Memorial at today’s presidential election result… This area is obviously used for ‘corporate
hospitality’ events…
Up a level (and there
are spacious lifts also) to the lower deck or hold. This is set out as if
loaded with tea which is the commodity for which she was designed and
commissioned – it being a somewhat luxury item that was gaining in popularity.
The displays include a very useful time-line on tea from its introduction to
the UK – choice quotes from our ‘old friend’ Dr Johnson – until the launch of
the Cutty Sark. In fact she was a bit late to the tea race which was soon being
run by steam ships. There is also a mural along part of one side evoking the
London portside where the cargo would have been unloaded.
Up to the ‘Tween deck
where the tea chests are ‘joined’ by bales of wool as after about 14 years on
the China run the Cutty Sark ran on to Australia returning with fine merino
wool. At the front or fo’csle you can stand directly behind the Cutty Sark’s
figure-head who has been given life through a rather sweet animated film – she
describes how windy, and therefore noisy
this part of the ship would have been and this is where the crew slept
originally, probably in hammocks. The ‘tea’ crew numbered about 25 later
reduced to 19 for the ‘wool’ runs. The Cutty Sark’s most successful period was under the captaincy of Woodget who
got his ship and crew back from Australia in a record breaking time of 11 days * (and you complain about 20 hour flights). Once steam took over this run as well, the ship passed to Portuguese owners who ran her for about 20 years to the
1920s.
From here you get back
into the fresh air and the top deck where there are two sets of accommodation,
crew and officers. Each has a sitting room and kitchen appropriate to the
numbers with ‘examples’ of the food available in pull out drawers. Given the
likely weather at sea everything that can be is screwed down or has a lip to
prevent dishes sliding off - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gimbal There is a very elegant gimbal to hold drinks
glasses. In fact all the woodwork is beautiful and has weathered very well and
is bound with intricate brass work to strengthen it – the workmanship and
carpentry is beautiful though of course uncredited.
Standing on deck
allows you to wonder at the mass of ropes which would have allowed you to
control the massive sails – speaking as one who cannot even thread a needle without
getting into a tangle, how sailors work out which rope belongs to what is a bit
of a mystery, but doubtless part of their training. In fact according to Wikepedia they are not
even called ropes but rigging and spars and lanyards; like any craft it has its
own language and customs.
On the day we visited
there were actually two chaps up in the rigging – apparently there is a regular
practice of renovating the bits of woodwork which hold the ropes – think toggle
to stop the cords on your windproof jacket from shifting – and that’s what they
were doing today. They were tied on of course, the weather was calm and the
ship not moving which are all benefits the original crew would not have had.
You cannot overestimate the bravery of those who climbed the rigging….
Gazing upwards can be
quite mesmerising and probably the best part of the Cutty Sark Experience – her
elegance can be appreciated from nearby but for a more detailed appreciation of
her history and prowess you would need to go on board.
* PS. Thanks Tim for comment and information below. So 11 days is stunningly fast even by today's shipping standards though I expect the CS is a bit smaller than some freighters today.
I was curious, so looked it up: Typical time Europe to Australia by modern freighter is about 40 days E.g. http://www.seat61.com/Australia-overland.htm or http://www.shipit.co.uk/container_shipping_schedules/australia.htm.
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