Northumberland Road Station to Euston Station
Thursday May 31st 2012
Our previous journey had taken us to the Angel Road
Superstores where a huge Tescos goes face to face with London’s newest IKEA,
which opened with controversial publicity in 2005 due to too many customers. Everything looked very quiet today and we had not
time to linger as we took the 341 back about four stops to Northumberland Park
– unfortunately Jo was unable to find her Freedom pass and paid for this very
short journey, which we only needed to get us to the start of Route 476 – a
double decker. Of course by the time the 476 arrived her pass had turned up…
This is not an area any of us had visited previously so it
is quite interesting that it had been chosen as a research area for looking at
population changes – I guess a microcosm of many inner London areas.
The Route 476 is very direct, and from Tottenham High Road
onwards it follows a straight north to south line. This part of London is not
particularly well served by the Underground until you reach Seven Sisters but
there are a series of rail stations and of course a wealth of buses. This route
marks our last passing this way. In
spite of the range of alternative buses ours was very popular and, reflecting
one of the local communities, we had an enthusiastic Turkish speaker on board. Tottenham High Road has had a poor run of
luck and the council is trying hard to move things on and perhaps by the time you read this there will be some visible improvements. The
19th century buildings both domestic and public are handsome but
need some TLC.
In Woodberry Down Estate Stamford Hill has one of the
largest council estates in London – by some weird synchronicity I watched the
1952 Coronation in one of the new flats, where friends of my parents had bought
one of those ‘new’ television sets, and here we were passing just before the 60th
Jubilee celebrations. Today the flats
are still going complete with raised vegetable beds in the communal grassy
areas. Hackney has always been a socially minded council; some of the local
flats are named after post war Labour leader Hugh Gaitskell From a privileged background himself he was
always to the right of the party. Talking of privilege, a local school is named
for William Patten who was successful as a teller for the Exchequer until a
check up showed monies missing and he lost his job, status and lands round
Stoke Newington. Just desserts seemed to arrive more quickly in the 16th
Century. Daniel Defoe, who also lived
round here, similarly has a school named for him. Stoke Newington Church
Street, part of which is covered by this route, continues to be a delight with
a diverse range of quirky shops and eating places: ‘Two Wheels Good’ which is a
bike shop and ‘Mudfoot and Scruff’ a shoe shop entertained us between the gems that are the Town Hall and Abney Park Cemetery, one of the Magnificent Seven – for a more leisurely
enjoyment of this stretch try Stages 12-13 of the Capital Ring walk. If Newington Green looks better than it did it is thanks to
such local groups and hard work behind the scenes.
Leaving Stoke Newington behind, the 476 carries on down the
entire length of the Essex Road until it reaches the Angel Islington (Angel to
Angel route?). The Essex Road gains
over Upper Street in its lack of pretension but still maintaining an attention
to detail – we spotted a couple of ghost signs and more interesting shops – the the Architectural Forum+ and unfortunately our third ambulance of the day.
We trundled through Islington faster than we often do
(memories of being stationary on the 73 and 38 routes when they were bendies
linger) and noticed the Walkabout pub had closed and was turning into a
‘Rattlesnake’ ?
Lord Clyde seems to have a pub named for him but as there
are several generations of this name it is hard to know whom the Essex Road
establishment is commemorating! Elizabeth Garrett Anderson is easier to
identify as this building used to house the medical school and hospital she set up for women.
An easy right turn took us along the Pentonville Road past
the two great North London stations – Kings Cross, its transformation nearly
complete, and St Pancras, now a well oiled machine. It is quite fitting that
the Rocket pub should lie between them. We turned round the back in order to
park up in front of Euston Station and its Doric Arch. This was a straight and
uncomplicated North to inner North London run and none the worse for that.
Will be sorry not to see any more mentions of my local neighbourhood now you've passed 476. It should be pointed out however that the estate you passed is in fact another LCC creation from a slightly earlier time - Stamford Hill Estate, which as you say is still going strong and likely to remain so for a number of years under Southern Housing. Woodberry Down is standing less steady in the tides of time, being in the process of demolition and redevelopment.
ReplyDeleteStamford Hill Estate has it's own little footnotes in the history of the area, being heavily occupied by squatters in the 1980s who showed some fairly impressive resistance to the authorities when they tried to turf them out. The comments below this photo shed a little light on what went on - http://www.flickr.com/photos/chrisdb1/3316874650/
Excellent reading as always.
Nico
That IKEA seems to be my daughter's favourite place... eek!
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