Baker Street Station to Putney High Street
Thursday February 7 2019
For once a flawless rendez-vous (we have
played hide and seek at Baker Street before now) and short wait for our 74
which I had been referring to as a 73 but this bus knew where it was going: south
west to Putney passing the plentiful plaques of Baker Street – HG Wells and
Pitt the Younger among others. Most of Baker Street is well established and
there are fewer changes along here in the last 10 years than in many parts of
London – the exception being this office? entrance some way along. This blog
entry has suffered from intermittent note taking and too many hospital visits
so timely labelling of photos did not happen, so there may well be
inaccuracies.
After Hyde Park Corner we had a swift run
down Park Lane and I noticed for the first time there was actually a date on
the Dorchester – 1932. I had hoped its
website might give me something of its history but it would rather help me
arrange an expensive stay. Doubtless its
architecture was seen as cutting edge at the time and it is holding up well. At the other end of Park Lane the Hilton looks
more ‘ordinary’ – it will be interesting to see what impact the ‘new kid on the
block’ (what is currently called the Peninsula, today boasting four cranes)
will have. By Hyde Park Corner we seemed
to be following a Laduree Van - the
same pretty green as their packaging. This was no bad thing as it inspired Jo
to buy some macaroons for the hospital
patient to eat (who in turn allowed us a taste) later in the week.
Then it was Knightsbridge and for once a
good view of the frontage precariously supported by scaffolding while a new
building is put up behind. Often when
traffic (and the buses) is delayed in town it is not so much road works as
building works spilling over into the road while building materials are
delivered. Apart from the damage to the
road surfaces from heavy lorries we hope the developers compensate generously
for their disruptions?
The bus has to do an enormous loop round
South Kensington station as the latter now has a wide and pleasant pedestrian
area surrounding it. This means that
effectively there is a 15 minute gap between the stops for the Victoria and
Albert Museum and the Natural History Museum when you know they are actually
next door to one another…
Once we had wriggled our way round to the
Cromwell Road there seemed to be an unending stream of hotels: Marriott,
Mercure et al. I suppose this westerly location makes them handy for both
Heathrow Airport and posh shops. There
is a Blue Plaque for Benjamin Britten which surprised us somewhat as we
associate him so strongly with Suffolk.
Considering how narrow the road is past Earls
Court station we made reasonable progress and noted quite how many of the Earls
Court pubs remain compared to some thoroughfares.
Jo promised to tell me who the ‘ Prince of Teck’ was but must have got distracted -
In brief he seems to have been a foreign
nobleman, largely German with multiple titles
but no real funds, who married into Victoria’s family and went on to live off handouts; his daughter
married even better, eventually becoming grandmother to the current monarch. Why you might wish to name a pub after him is
not exactly clear.
The Brompton Road took us towards West
Kensington, less smart and what used to be ‘bed-sitter land’ but now probably eye
watering expensive flat shares or tenancies. Of course the Earls Court
Exhibition Centre is no more
as the bulldozers moved in to demolish the building, arguably more interesting
than Olympia, in 2014. So this has been a major change since we last came this
way.
The Empress State Building is somewhat eye
catching but only for its height.
From this point the roads narrow again as
the 74 passes through Fulham, which has always retained its character, which
was originally that of a working class area with accommodation for potters and
other craftsmen, merchants to service the skilled trades, and local shops. Of
course the shops have changed and the area much gentrified but its essential
elements remain, giving it an attraction that West Kensington could never
match! The Brompton cemetery did have some early daffodils though.
Lillie Road is named after Sir John Lillie,
who laid out this and the adjacent streets but the Lily Langtry pub is serendipitous
– it is thought the actress and socialite ‘received’ the Prince of Wales Edward
VIII near here. I skimmed through her
Wikipedia entry but to be honest she was linked to so many famous men that I
lost interest, though it certainly means her name remains known and popular
till today.
As we did a few weeks back, we turned left
alongside Fulham Cemetery, the borough’s oldest. The gravestones seemed very widely spaced by
today’s standards when space is at a premium. Quite quickly we turned into
Fulham Palace Road and past the Bishop’s Palace (not really visible from the
bus) and his park which is now a pleasant space next to the river. Good to see a working public clock too.
Of course we were heading for the river too
and somewhat to my surprise, though that is what it said on the tin (bus), we
did actually stop a good way up Putney’s High Street rather than creeping to a
halt once over the bridge. This crossing
always affords excellent river views in both directions, even on a day with lowering
skies.
Putney Exchange offers some prize winning
facilities we were pleased to use before heading for our key route the 22. This route has remained unchanged since last riding this way
PS We hope our readers and followers, and
bus drivers passed a good festive season and we wish them all the
best for 2020.
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