Bellingham to
Shoreditch
Thursday
June 27 2019
If ever a
bus route was worth repeating after ten years this was it. As a former Lewisham
Borough employee, and this route is mostly in that local authority, I thought I
knew it quite well but there have been tremendous changes since we last rode
this way.
Jo had
Thameslinked her way to Bellingham where this route starts, just past Catford
Bus garage, and it trundles its way up the Bromley Rod with substantial houses,
end of terrace with little pointy towers, on the one side and flats or
industrial units on the other and then stops at various points through Catford
Centre where the main employer, even after cuts, remains the Town Hall and
Laurence House – the theatre had been spruced up for a royal visit some years
ago but was now looking a little shabby.
The huge
pub opposite, previously the ‘Black Horse & Harrow’, had been painted over
into
Ninth Life which seems not just to offer a pub
but promises events and immersive theatre – no wonder the Broadway opposite
looks a little tired in comparison . Nine lives also are linked to cats of
which Catford still has one... The
stretch of road from here to Lewisham has generous grass verges continuing past
the War Memorial and hospital until it reaches Lewisham shopping centre . This
remains popular in spite of local rivals and online shopping – the number of
bus routes helps bring in passengers who change buses and there are always
inviting fruit and vegetable stalls and this combination just about bucks the
trend. There are some plans for improvement to
keep up with the very modern police station.
The biggest
changes are round the station and in the intervening years the roundabout has
been transformed into a T-Junction of sorts and where buses used to wait now
boasts several new blocks of flats. The Glassmill Leisure centre was one of the
first new builds and its chequerboard exterior remains jolly. As the bus has to
negotiate one river and its tributary plus one overhead and one ground level
railway this necessitates a lot of weaving, and allows you to see how close to
the railway developers .
But then there are the older cottages too..
Talking of
the river, this part of the route effectively follows the Ravensboure as well
as Deptford Creek, which is currently undergoing some gentrification against
the wishes of well-established locals. Also very evident here were the Tideway Works (sewers to you and me), partly blocking the road but also obscuring the view of the usually very
visible St Paul’s Church.
Once turned
left into Clyde Street the 47 does effectively follow the turns of the Thames
but of course it is not really visible, even from the top deck , due to the
density of the building – most of it social housing that went up after WW2
destruction, but with some of it now coming down. The area’s rich heritage is
reflected in the various names of streets and schools – Grinling Gibbons (the
master wood carver), Pepys of diary and naval career fame was always walking up
and down here , and John Evelyn was another diarist.
Someone
along here has had fun with the road signs substituting Malibu and Laurel
Canyon for the correct destinations Like many others I have often
passed this way and not noticed.
The 47 of
course does the obligatory detour to enter the Surrey Quays Shopping area,
where the shoppers and passengers congregate and board, and then pushes on to
Canada Water. Most of the building round
here belongs to a previous wave of regeneration namely the
transformation of
defunct docks into housing but one or two more homes have been squeezed in ,
and the area has won a very handsome library.
On into
Rotherhithe where again building and development predominates though social
housing along Jamaica Road has a longer history. The church of St Olave’s
remains though less of what once had grown up around it: an infirmary then hospital plus a Nurses’ Home (who knew
Michael Caine was born here?) all now due to be redeveloped.
This
history might explain why there is still a large undertaker close to the
roundabout, after which we were heading through Bermondsey complete with its
transformative Underground station.
By the time
the 47 is on Tooley Street the gentrification of this part of Southwark is very
obvious; it is the kind of gentrification that now attracts overseas visitors
so pedestrians added to the volume of traffic ( and the narrowness of the
streets) helped slow us somewhat. New to us was The Dixon (ah, I thought, a former police station
perhaps named after the first TV copper PC Dixon ) but no it was a former
magistrates’ court and Dixon refers to the architect of this handsome Edwardian
building.
We were of
course approaching London Bridge and for some treason I thought we were due to
finish at the station but Jo reminded me we had a way to go yet so I
uncollected my things and enjoyed the slow river crossing.
Once into
the City we had a fairly straight run past Bank, various towers of variable
quality, up towards Broadgate and Liverpool Street before it did that
disconcerting wriggle that means we totally lose our sense of direction. Coming
towards us down the very crowded Bishopsgate were all the route numbers we have
already completed and after today there will be quite a long gap until we reach
the mid 100s and upwards…
The
street/wall art in Shoreditch is always lively though I was surprised to learn
that Adore & Endure has, well, endured for nearly 10 years now.
The route
actually finishes at St Leonard’s Church, which Jo reminded me as I stepped off
blithely one stop early at Shoreditch Town Hall – still we walked to within
sight of the church and rather than tangle with Great Eastern Street and
crossings at Shoreditch we headed north for a different Overground station.
This was a
route absolutely worth repeating as so much has changed, especially at its
southern end, since we last took it.
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