Hackney Wick to Waterloo Station
Thursday March 14 2019
Last time
we rode this route was in lovely summer sunshine and with a guest photographer riding
along which is my way of excusing the
standard of today’s photography – quantity yes, quality ?
We met at Hackney Wick which always strikes
me as something of a no man’s land, cowering as it does under the elevated A12.
The early part of the route is dominated by swathes of Hackney homes, some
older but certainly more numerous than ten years ago. Dotted amongst them are a
very few remaining pubs, which somehow must have survived various eras of
demolition deliberate or otherwise.
Hackney also seemed to be laying (?) new
cycle paths – not usually a feature I comment on but I was quite taken with
these sandy looking lanes which I find more attractive than the blue of the Superhighways
– I gather the ‘super’ bit is to be dropped in order to discourage a certain
kind of cyclist who viewed them as an invitation to race ? Between the many
new blocks you can see some remnants of older cottages in what once would have
been Hackney Wyke village.. As Hackney’s own site says the regeneration has been extensive and noticeable.
The emphasis on providing space for artists
is more obvious as you approach central Hackney and we passed both the London School of Architecture
and a newly built Arts Space. This one had some slightly
strange plastic cladding which Jo thought served as double glazing but which
looked to me like the kind of packaging which invites puncturing.
In contrast just in front was a
rather well preserved cattle trough
of which, according to this website, Hackney has several. And did you know that
Samuel Gurney whose statue we passed last week was one of the founding members
of this association?
Once we were over the Regents Canal we were
heading down the Hackney Road – there are some new builds along here but the
older shabbier outlets were very much as they were 10 years ago, namely
bag/leather shops . This seems to be one of the older industries that has
survived or been partially resurrected – we spotted Boris Bags, Dill Bags, United
Bags, Face Bags, and no doubt missed many more.
The Hackney Road leads the 26 into even
trendier Shoreditch, famous for its varied graffitti, past Columbia Market, and what I thought was a cycle
/launderette combo called ‘Powder to the People’, which is apparently a dance song.
Interestingly there were also several
hoardings advertising ‘Containerville’ which offers nearby workspace for
creatives presumably at a lesser cost than the office and living spaces going
up just close to Liverpool Street station.
The 26 slowed down along Broadgate – the
rather Mannerist block which went up about 30 years ago is being renovated
doubtless with some additions.
We were not clear whether this is the cause of Liverpool Street’s bus station
not being in use but more likely Crossrail, whose changing end date rivals that
of Brexit.
Just past here where Wormwood street
crosses we had our second (still rainy) viewing of the little cabin perched on
the overhead footbridge – an artwork from 2018’s Sculpture in the City.
St Botolph’s , whose plan was to welcome all comers, nestles
between the newer buildings with another building site further along so it was quite a relief to be coming down
the side of the more familiar Bank of England
where access is now restricted to buses and cycles, and of course
pedestrians.
There followed the slowest part of this
trip today, slow enough for the weather to go from grey to rain to sun in the way only London spring weather can as
we passed St Paul’s , St Mary Aldermanbury
whose garden
is
one of the welcome oases in the City, and then even more slowly down Ludgate
Hill . I sometimes envisage Sir Christopher Wren looking at the traffic in a
totally bemused way and thinking how to walk must be faster than this – on the
other hand had he lived nowadays he might have had a mid-life crisis and bought
himself a useless sports car…
Inevitably as we still had to get
considerably further west Fleet Street was the preferred route. No longer the hub of the printed word it
boasts many fine public clocks – we thought to remind reporters of their
deadlines.
All things considered the timings were not bad: just on an hour
from far east Hackney Wick and clearly this 26 was ahead of schedule as he stopped on the bridge to ‘regulate the
service’ though with only one stop to go
it was more likely he was waiting for his
space where the 26s rest up before they turn round. The final stop is of
course in front of Waterloo Station side entrance, handy for us to step inside,
use the now (since March 1st) free loos and admire Waterloo’s new
platforms 20-23, once the home of Eurostar and finally refurbished.
But this is a bus blog so on we went to
find our 381 to get us (nearer for some) to home.. after the 26 full of
innovation and change from the last time we rode it.
Hi! I'm making a documentary called "At The Top of the Double Decker Bus" for my university dissertation and would love to interview you guys or just have a chat about buses! Please contact me at 164207@live.stmarys.ac.uk if you'd want to make part of it.
ReplyDeleteThanks!
Ana Maria Moreno