Newington Green to Lewisham Shopping Centre
Thursday January 31 2019
We met at Dalston Kingsland
only to find that the Kingsland Shopping Centre is the only one without
toilet facilities so it was Costa to the rescue again…
I had vetoed Jo’s suggestion of arriving
via the 73 so we walked mainly in the right direction and through some well
maintained and quiet seeming estates. The bus stop was the first thing we saw
as the previous 21 drove off, but it was a short wait for this hour long
journey to SE London.
The first part of the route took us past
some very handsome older houses with patches of infill, but very much in
character in terms of height and colour so blending well.
As we were transitioning from Hackney into
Islington we spotted a Blue Plaque – not an English Heritage One but one from
the Association of Music Hall Artists of England and the US. This one was for Nelly Power a child star who grew up ‘on the boards’ and lived here with her mother.
Our next landmark – London Regent’s
Canal - is better known in its trendier
locations of Camden Town and King’s Cross but the waterside has obviously
been rehabilitated ( and gentrified
round here too) Baring Road ( named for
the erstwhile banking group) goes alongside the canal for a while and then the bus crosses over.
I thought I recognised the patch of
greenery we passed but it proved to be Shoreditch Park , a fairly recent
addition to Hackney as it happens – the patch of green in a densely populated
inner city area owes its origins to bomb damage, then later the pre-fabs were
removed and the park laid out in the
Sixties. With the Regents canal being
nearly 200 years old and Bunhill Fields, also on the City Road, has been used as a public open space for about 150
years, Shoreditch is a much later
addition.
Close to Bunhill Fields is the John Wesley Chapel where we had had an interesting visit, with the house/home also open
next door.
More religion was on offer this time the
Salvation Army Hoxton Centre – I sometimes think were these original
philanthropists and church outreach workers to return to 21st
century London they would find enormous changes in the buildings that have
grown up (and what they are used for) but they would find similar poverty-struck people at street level..
On through the hub that is Old Street with
its multiple ‘start-ups’ we quite liked
the The White Collar Factory name though
it seems to have as many eating spaces as work spaces
By the time we got to Finsbury Square (not
to be confused with Finsbury Circus as I discovered last week) the driver was
announcing that we were on diversion – not something the TFL website had
commented on.
We, and much other traffic were sent round
London Wall and past the monument rather than along Bishopsgate and having made
good progress thus far it was not surprising that we stalled here.
It was slow enough to notice the few City
churches left amongst the new and ever taller blocks. The offices are so ‘cheek
by jowl’ that one gets reflected in the surface of the next…
All Hallows-on-the-Wall does not look much
from the outside but apparently has a lovely interior and as you can see from here has had a more
recent history of social rather than religious service.
More Cross rail disruption followed – the
hoardings proclaim 60 seconds to Crossrail – if only…
We emerged a little too swiftly to take a frontal view of the
Monument and crossed London Bridge taking a route south through Borough High
Street and the older parts of Southwark
rather than tangling with the Elephant – plenty of that to come..
When
we did this route ten years ago I had thought the Blue Men climbing the wall (
I know the feeling) on the Maya office block were a temporary attraction but they seemed to have stayed the
course and still look – well blue. Here is some more detail from Hidden London
On a more sober note the HQ of Carers UK is
also along here – a fine service as most carers are in fact ‘hidden’ and
probably saving the state very much money.
For me approaching the Bricklayers Arms from
this direction was a bit of a novelty as I am usually going north (slow) or
south (fast over the flyover) – this has long been a key interchange for London
bound traffic from the coast and is where horses and coaches would have stopped
and changed over. The changing bit has
probably shifted to Elephant but it is a key, if unlovely entry point to
London. A few plane trees with their ‘fruit’ helped us on our way.
After turning left it was a pretty straight
run down the Old Kent Road , which has a
bit of everything – small firms – Obadiah Rose solicitor sounding like a
Dickens character – huge Tesco & Asda Superstores – smaller outlets serving
the varied and many ethnic communities that start their UK lives along here varied housing including some City of London
blocks with blooming flower beds.
There was even a church that promised to
‘set captives free’.
Infamous Millwall are off to the right near
some more railway tracks and passing the The Five Bells still very much a pub,
where a pub has always been with a lively website.
New Cross has a bus garage (‘ Are we going
in said Jo’ - no it's for buses
only) and nearly opposite is a Blue
Plaque to a John Tallis who apparently
was a printer and publisher famed for his ‘London Street Views’ , and had
obviously found himself a nice home here.
Sadly the pollution really seems to hang
around in this part of London and once past the Overground station (nicely
redone inside) the grime seems to hang around – mostly due to heavy traffic
heading out of London. This is Goldsmiths’ territory of course and they have
several buildings for the student body round here. As the top of Lewisham Way
is one-way the 21 heading south went round via Amersham Way , and then
continued along past more Education – Lewisham College and the Deptford Memorial Gardens
Jo could scarcely recognise Lewisham from
our earlier bus days as in the intervening years it has lost both the
roundabout and the bus station and gained several indifferent housing blocks.
While the roundabout was hardly a feature the replacements are not exactly
thrilling.
This marked the end of our pretty efficient
– when you think of the distances covered -
trip from Newington Green in just under the hour.
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