Orpington to Crystal
Palace
Monday August 16th 2010
If ever passengers on a bus route deserved a drink – it was
us. This route was in fact the book end of a marathon 5 bus day which had seen
us out at Dartford and Bluewater, where waiting for a non-London route had cost
us nearly an hour. Still, what had started as a very autumnal trip had burst
into warm sunshine on this our last route of the day.
But back to Orpington – trouble began ten metres out of the
bus garage where a motorist was blocking the route, refusing to move and the
bus driver quite correctly if a little crudely, was asserting his right of way.
Jo maintains buses should have cowcatchers, like the old Western trains,
(carcatchers?) to deal more effectively with such situations. Um.
The silver sports car owner (why am I not surprised?) backed
down, and we turned out of the station (I always forget how far it is from the
High Street) to the War memorial and High Street. The last two times we had
been this way were first in the January snows and then in the spring when the
local authority gardeners (Bromley) were planting up the floral displays we
could enjoy today.
The 358 makes a little foray down the High Street and round the corner to pick up shoppers from Sainsbury’s, then backtracks – this whole exercise took over 20 minutes, so makes you wonder if Sainsbury’s contribute to the drivers’ salaries? In the High Street there had been changes too – Yo Bo seems to be a Chinese restaurant though as no-one has posted a review either means it’s very new or not worth it. Next door or nearly is Mystic Brew, which is indeed a recent addition to the High Street, much praised by NetMums.
The bus now head due south, through fairly affluent-seeming
Orpington, almost to Green Street Green, which for once is aptly named, as
there was quite a lot of greenery on this route. It then turns sharply north again, cleverly avoiding the A21 for
as long as it can. Somewhere along Farnborough Hill the drivers changed, though
we could not quite see where they had come from (? hidden garage). Close by is
a pub called the 'Change of Horses' so while the drivers don’t have to haul
passengers up hill as the horses would have done, they obviously needed
refreshment. This seems to be a
venue for folk singing, a focus for the village and as the sun was shining it looked every bit as good as its publicity.
I gather it is also related to ‘Ye Old Whyte Lyon’ which is
close by where Farnborough Common rejoins the Hastings Road. I fear someone overdosed on the letter ‘Y’
in their Letraset/font collection. This pub has Shepherds Neame, which I am reliably informed is the oldest still-working brewery in England.
Not sure we will get to Faversham on our London travels so there is the link anyway.
The A21 route in and out of Bromley Town centre is pretty
familiar and we made good time along here – the larger family houses then give
way to the ubiquitous modern flats which characterise areas close enough to
stations for commuters.
Affinity Sutton would appear to be a conglomeration of
housing associations with the tag-line ‘Helping People Put Down Roots’.
By now the time was getting close to 5PM, so not
surprisingly we picked up significant numbers of passengers both at Bromley
South station (oo the temptation to leap off here and take a First Capital
Direct all the way home) and Bromley North, which marks the end of the High
Street and where the happy Glades shoppers board laden with their parcels.
Indeed the bus filled up with wispy blondes and soon there was nowhere to sit
and almost nowhere to stand – this situation was not helped by two passengers
of a similar demographic to ourselves who, so absorbed in their chat, did not
move away from blocking the exit doors and the back area of the bus where most
of the space was, thus proving that selfishness is not just a juvenile
trait!
That tempers were not fraying was remarkable, especially as
the bus ground to a halt on the steep descent to Shortlands Station. It was not
clear why other than volume of traffic, but it shows how slowly everyone was
progressing that we caught up the previous 358 that we had just missed at
Orpington. As quickly as it had clogged
it cleared past Shortlands, and the bus headed into the lesser roads, a mixture
of magnificent older houses and substantial family dwellings – not many bus
users round here I would guess.
My notes at this point totally degenerate and become even
more unreadable. I suspect I had lost
the will to live (having been travelling for nigh on 8 hours – under other
circumstances I could have been in Chicago). Fortunately I know the route quite
well and after the Chinese Garage, which does what it says on the tin (and is
now quite appropriately an outlet for Kia motors), the 358, God help us, dives
south again heading for Eden Park. Uninterrupted urban housing indicates to us
this area was largely spared significant wartime bombing and feels as settled
as it looks, with wide roads and enough garaging to help sustain the front
gardens intact. I suspect one of the reasons for the bus detour is to serve the
two Langley schools, much sought after by local residents in search of Bromley
Education . Along towards Elmers End, this route joins several others and poor
Jo, on recognising the terminus of the 54 and signs to Bromley, thought she
would never see her home again. And there wasn’t even any Turkish delight to
sustain us.
At least the 358 does not serve the whole of Beckenham but
just the cinema end, and soon worked its way along to Penge past Clockhouse and
the tramlink and crossing the River Pool. Here is where most of Beckenhams’s
civic amenities are to be found – library, pool gym plus Spa and even a small theatre
are ranged along here.
And so to Penge, very much the poor and sometimes forgotten
relation of Bromley borough, having really more in common with neighbouring
Lewisham in its demographics. By now we had lost most of the passengers to
their homes or their last minute shopping and there was now so much space two
small children could play ‘walk the dog’ with their yo-yos on the bus floor. In
case you’ve forgotten here’s how:
Today we were spared the normally very slow Penge High
Street and could head to Crystal Palace (‘I see the Tower!’ said Jo rather
desperately) meaning we could finally spot our destination – the highest point
in South London, the Crystal Palace transmitter. I don’t know about changing horses but all the buses take Anerley
Hill in a very low gear as it climbs past some rather desolate shops, some potentially fine properties, a bit of religion and crosses two railway lines before reaching its
final destination.
It had taken 100 minutes to complete this trip, admittedly
advertised as 80 something, but we were well weary and pleased to be off what
is actually quite an attractive and long-distance Kent ‘once they were all
villages’ type route, now studded with housing leisure and Waitroses
galore.
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