The Number 57 Route

Monday 22 February 2010

While we are never inclined to complain, we are really bored with this cold, wet weather, which ensures that our photos give barely an impression of this long and interesting trip. After a 20 minute wait at Clapham Park for the 'every 6-8 minutes' 57, Mary, Linda and I headed upstairs hoping to thaw, only to find cold air blowing onto us from above.

Clearly there was a general problem with the service, as we did not see a 57 in the opposite direction for the first 30 minutes of our journey . But we did not pass any hold-up sufficient to explain it. We were, as so often, impressed by our driver's patience and competence, when other road users hadn't got as far as the page on box junctions in their copies of the Highway Code.

Still, off we went, and soon passed the Knights Youth Centre, and then a ghost bike on the railings where the South Circular meets the A23. The cycle lanes in the boroughs through which we travelled were so narrow and intermittent, I suppose we should be glad there were no more.

On a more cheerful note, Streatham Hill has the attractive white Wavertree Court, with its (Dutch inspired?) roofs, as well as Dr Dolittle's Pet Shop and a hair dresser to add to our collection ('Cutting Room', which we assume to have a cinematic resonance).

The Waaberi Community Centre proves to offer support for the Somali community in South London and we also passed the 'Mountain of Fire and Miracle Ministry' (a Nigerian Church), before coming to the Wandsworth Oasis Charity shop.

The bus was very busy, no doubt because of the long wait, with many young people getting off for South Thames College as we turned right off Mitcham Lane, and more getting on and off at Tooting Broadway Station. Through Colliers Wood, with the Wandle flowing very high, we came into Merton. South Wimbledon station was a bit baffling, as we were coming from the north and had not reached Wimbledon itself yet; but we soon did, with the Polka Theatre (fond memories for Linda from when the children were young) and then the New Theatre, before popping into and out of the Sir Cyril Black bus depot (Wimbledon’s MP from 1950-1970, since you ask).

Then it was on to Raynes Park, with the playing fields of Wimbledon College intermittently visible behind the large houses. We went across the Beverley Brook Walk which looks attractive, and the A3, which doesn't, to reach the Royal Borough of Kingston upon Thames. Apparently Saxon Kings were sometimes crowned here, but the 'Royal' these days is authorised by a charter of 1965. We were actually in New Malden, with many private roads, some gated, off either side of the bus route. Soon we came to Kingston Hospital, and into the town, although without glimpsing the Thames. We did, however, pass a number of schools, notably Tiffin Boys' and the Royal Grammar School, before arriving at Fairfield Bus Station, and the end of our journey, well within the 95 minutes advertised time, which left us ever more baffled about the gaps in the service.

The Number 56 Route

Whipps Cross (Hospital) to West Smithfield (St. Bartholomew’s Hospital)

Tuesday February 16th 2010

Today was one of the few occasions when we could do directly ‘back to back’ buses: having just got off the 55 down the road, and walked the short distance after disembarking, using Tesco’s loos ('all they are good for?’) and admiring the local war memorial – Essex regiments in both wars.

We could never quite get the USP of this route, as for most of its time it snuggles up to our ‘old friends’ the 30, 38 and 48 and of course ‘new friend’ the 55, but given that this part of the world is thin on tubes and trains they probably do need more buses, and certainly though a very frequent service it was busy enough. The upstairs was bright and clean and HEATED, which meant of course less condensation, though the rain continued outside.

So we settled down on our cosy bus and did some waiting back at the Bakers’ Arms while the drivers changed. This was half term but most sensible people were skulking indoors and the several male passengers seemed to be destined for the couple of mosques we passed. We did notice that the driver quite often lowered the door thresholds as the bus knelt for buggies and less able passengers, and the whole bus sort of ‘sighed’.

Along the very long Lea Bridge Road we spotted the Sleeping Beauty Motel and the Waltham Forest Carnegie Library, which they have afforded a ‘local’ blue plaque – these have been in short supply through the Fifties… On the whole Lea Bridge has the usual selection of fast food and hairdressers Tangles and Montáge [sic]. This is not the first time we have passed the Lea Valley Riding Centre and never seen a horse so I expect they were skulking too.

At the Lea Bridge waterways junction there was a scenic riverside pub (Young’s of course) and another one called the ‘Ship Aground’, both testaments that this was once a busy working river, I imagine used for hauling stuff up to the City. Technically the River Lea or Lee (both spellings seem equally acceptable) is a canalised river joining Hertford to London.

Soon we were back down to the Lea Bridge Roundabout, probably better known as the Clapton Ponds, and then we poddled on through Hackney at quite a slow pace owing to the volume of traffic into town. There are some fine old Mansions we had passed before and lots of new build social housing, with more to come (we noticed the Queensbridge site had reduced its rubble to fine dust but not yet shifted it or built and foundations).

What had progressed was the work on the East London Line extension, with gleaming new tracks and pretty points seemingly close to completion, doubtless inspired by the ‘Empowering Church’ just opposite.

For sustenance of a different kind we passed again Arthur’s Café – the super Youtube link is on the Route 38, but this time we managed a photo.

Down into Canonbury via the Essex Road and the bathroom fittings on offer go suddenly upmarket – shops approaching the Angel included ‘Past Caring’ second-hand goods, Angel Cuts and ‘S&M’ food. For once the traffic through Islington and past the Angel was pretty clear though of course lots of people were out shopping in their lunch-hour. This continued down into the City where the range of umbrellas on view became altogether more sober and bigger. Lunch-type shoppers who had opted for the environmentally sound paper bags looked pushed to get back to their desks before soggy paper bag syndrome took over.

Our exposure to bus and roadside advertising has been pretty constant over the last year but we both really enjoyed the 118.118 adverts using tube stations as ‘eating stops’: apart from the one illustrated we had also seen Chutney Bridge, Piccallili Circus, Elephant & Casserole and Hyde Park Korma – a witty and friendly take on London eating.

The 56 turns down Goswell Street and it seems only from here on is it a sole bus. passing as it does the City University, dotted about in different shop fronts and the Dogs Trust (a recent rebranding, which might explain why we had not heard of it ) and appropriate for a trip which included a very well behaved dog.

We crossed over Old Street and then into the City past the Museum of London, which seemed inspiring when it opened forty or so years ago and can still please. However we need to wait until May 2010 for the refit of the modern galleries to be revealed.

The bus passes Gresham Street with its grasshoppers and close to St Paul’s, looking grey rather than white today, before turning right up to West Smithfield (the market sides covered with tactful wrought iron roses rather than meat carcasses) and stopping in front of the old part of Bart’s. We did not have Mary with us today who, along with several family members did her medical training here, but we salute it as one of London’s older hospitals, even if it's lost some of its former standing.

In fact you might say this was a hospital-to-hospital bus as we left from close to Whipps Cross passing the Homerton and arriving at Bart’s.

The Number 55 Route

Tuesday 16 February 2010

After several journeys in South East London, we were heading North and East towards Leyton for a change; unfortunately the weather was unchanging, except that it was wetter than ever, but still cold. Linda and I met at Great Titchfield Street, where the journey begins, despite the nominal start at Oxford Circus. We turned left almost immediately, along Goodge Street and Chenies Street, because of the CrossRail works at Centre Point. We wonder whether this one way system will become permanent.

We rejoined the traditional route at the Umbrella Shop, which I expect was doing roaring trade on this grim day, and headed past Bloomsbury Square, along Theobalds Road and into Clerkenwell. We passed the north end of Hatton Garden, and soon reached Old Street Station. We were making the kind of progress that demonstrated that we were heading out of, rather than into, the city. Actually, we were in Islington for a brief while, passing the EC1 Music Centre and a Classic Cars Emporium (they looked quite modern to me...) The Reliance Pub has a Thames sailing ship as its pub sign, but as usual the websites are all about the beer and not about the reason behind the name.

We passed through a corner of Tower Hamlets, with the many leather goods places we had noticed before, as well as Metal Morphosis which seems to teach as well as offering tattoos and piercings, but were soon into Hackney, and zooming along Cambridge Heath Road. We were surprised to see that the Religious Sisters of Charity are having a new Convent built, bucking the more usual trend for religious communities in the 21st century. We noted a property called 'City Retreat', a reminder of the days when Hackney was a rural haven for the wealthier city folk, and also Mothers' Square, once a hospital but now housing, before reaching Clapton Pond, its fountain busy adding to the rainy day.

Then it was over the River Lea Navigation, and past the large HQ of the Clancy Docwra Victorian Watermain Replacement Project which we all enjoy so much and which (apparently) will be finished in 2010. And so to Leyton and the Bakers Arms, in very much less than the projected 75 minutes, despite being 'held to regulate the service'.

The Number 54 Route

Tuesday 2 February 2010

We were once again in Woolwich for our 12.00 start, and a short wait outside Tesco's brought us the 54, a double decker between two single deckers about which you will read in a few months. The 54 is Lucy Mangan's bus, according to her column about snow, so we felt we were sitting on the seats used by the famous. 'We', on this trip, were Linda, Mary and me. This was a very new bus, with huge windows upstairs, all the better to see the dreary and rainsoaked world outside.

This is not the part of Greenwich that tourists see; it seems run down, with boarded-up pubs like the Village Blacksmith and the Woodman, and a certain amount of new building. We passed Repository Woods, still the property of the MOD and were soon into the centre of Charlton village, with views of Charlton House and the Bugle Horn pub. The views down to the river and the Dome reminded us how steeply the land rises away from the Thames.

Houses in Vanbrugh Park Road matched the smartness of its name, and then we were onto Blackheath, with its handsome Georgian and early Victorian houses, and the drinking fountain endowed by Alderman Andrew Gibb at the start of the last century. Our bus went through Blackheaths smart shops and on past the enormous Church of St Margaret , Lee and close to Christ the King Sixth Form College, where it was clearly the lunch break.

We soon rejoined routes we have travelled before, past Lewisham Hospital and into Catford, noting Linda's office, the Theatre and the bus station and then past the Tiger's Head and the Green Man, both now closed and the Motown Soul Bar, still thriving.

Then it was a right turn down towards Beckenham, the 54 being the only bus that serves this bit of the 'greener Borough' of Bromley, and we crossed the Green Chain Walk again before reaching the Village sign. The centre had some very fine pansies, but we were slightly baffled by the sign for the Villager's Sausage Shop. Perhaps apostrophes would be better totally abolished (or perhaps only one villager is actually allowed to shop there?)

To add to our collection of hairdresser names, we were pleased to see 'Cutting Remarks' and 'Nut Hatch'. We may have to start a new category, as we were tickled by Cake Expectations (though we could not find a website for them)

Soon after that, we reached the large Elmers End Tesco's and disembarked. We had been puzzled by the less-than-convenient terminating place for the 54, but it turns out that the trams are to blame! The journey had taken 60 minutes instead of the advertised 45.

The Number 53 Route

Plumstead to Whitehall

Monday January 25th 2010

We (that is the three of us) had arrived at Plumstead Garage via a rather tortuous route on a dirty, very cold and unfriendly bus that turfed us out in the middle of Eltham Common to freeze further waiting for the next in that irregular service (of which more anon) but it did deposit us at Plumstead garage just adjacent to a 53 all fired up to go – so we went pleased to get shelter on what I believe the Scots call a 'dreich' day – ‘snell’ too – that is, that quintessentially British combination of cold and wet causing the windows to steam up. We spent much of the trip wiping patches to de-mist, but as our photos indicate barely succeeding: in spite of the very helpful passenger who gave us a variety of mopping cloths, we could not keep things clear – hence the look of peering through curtains of condensation. It was a shame as clearly this route does pass a range of good photo opportunities.

We whirled out of the garage and round various roundabouts and one way systems to the first actual stop – interestingly the 53 goes steep uphill then down again back to the river in an alternative loop round Plumstead. There must be a college round here as groups of students were toiling uphill. In fact this early part of the trip passed at least four primary schools indicating the density of the population hereabouts. Another Brewery Road crosses the Green Chain Walk (enjoy this revamped site looking very seasonal) which covers the green bits of this part of London. The RCCG Victory Centre proved to be a church rather than a military rest home (hereabouts who knows?). We did spot our first Camellia in flower but believe me the photo thereof is unusable!Back down in Woolwich we were bombarded by urges to buy property ‘in the historic heart/dynamic future’ in what is now Royal Arsenal Riverside. With ¼ million beds for sale there will clearly be a major impact on this area. What started as a huge complex of armouries, barracks, dockyards etc one to two centuries ago has gradually been closed down and sites variously now house Thamesmead housing, Belmarsh prison and the new ‘dynamic development’.

Across the road on the non-river side, not so dynamic Woolwich continues with Plan B offering us both hairdressing and tattooing service under one roof. The old Woolwich Equitable Building still just about dominates the town centre of Woolwich though most of the core business has moved to Bexleyheath. Uphill from there to the Repository Woods (which still are off limits and with the Ministry of Defence) and onto Charlton Park Road – Charlton Village does really retain its villagy feel together with its Bugle Horn pub, formed of three old cottages. I’m sure there is no shortage of urban foxes round this way, if the ghosts of the huntsmen were to return.

Charlton merges into the fringes of Blackheath (as all good estate agents will tell you) with its Rugby Club and private school, and eventually down Blackheath Hill to Deptford. Crossing Blackheath can be lovely but all we managed to glimpse was Wat Tyler Way reminding us that he led his fellows to challenge King Richard II, in what was later generally known as the Peasants’ Revolt (or Pheasants’ Revolt, in ‘1066 and All That’). The King rode ‘out of London’ to meet them (and probably took less time than we did). A hundred or so years later Jack Cade led the men of Kent to rebel against Henry VI but he does not seem to have a road named after him, perhaps because he lost his head?

Deptford and round the one way system at New Cross was markedly jam-free. Talking of jam, the bus between Woolwich and Elephant was jam-packed; with few seats upstairs and people standing downstairs, although often at this time of day we have the upstairs virtually to ourselves. Jam was also our only sustenance, Jo having brought some pots of home-made marmalade. The delays made us so hungry we were close to eating our gifts there and then, but in the end made do with some slightly fuzzy peppermints. The Marquis of Granby, a pub on a prominent corner in New Cross, is one of several named for a popular army commander – evidence of the number of disabled sergeants that he set up as publicans.

New Cross Road turns into the Old Kent Road, and then the New Kent Road and today we covered its full length. ‘Ossory’ Road off to the left always catches my attention and it’s hard to ignore East Street Market. The newer arrivals such as ‘Parillas de Sur’, a Latin American restaurant, add some colour on a dull dull day.

Traffic was flowing pretty well at Elephant & Castle - I was pleased to be on a 53 as it’s always the bus that comes instead of the one I really want so next time I’ll know it a little better. The London School of Communication was extremely busy with students outdoors even on such a cold day.

On past Lower Marsh where Mary recommended a small Sushi place handy for lunchtime meetings and then past St. Thomas’s, that other great South London Hospital, and over Westminster Bridge passing Boadicea. Sadly, the bus does not actually finish adjacent to the Horse Guards – I was all poised to take a photo but round the back in Northumberland Avenue it was less photogenic. One hour twenty minutes plus for what is a very long way in not unreasonable and on a warmer brighter day would have been delightful, however that was not the experience today as on disembarking we had a quick, almost undignified dash to Charing Cross to use the facilities and thaw a little.

The Number 52 Route

Monday 18 January 2010

We met at Victoria, Mary. Linda and me; only I was wearing the hoody, but it was cold and miserable enough for it to be hidden beneath other layers. We were off at 10.25, up past Buckingham Palace to Hyde Park Corner, and left towards Knightsbridge. We passed the amazing One Hyde Park development, and the Paxton's Head Pub. We have linked you to the pub before, so here is some information about Joseph himself.

Rightish just before Harrods, to pass a lot of embassies and the Royal Albert Hall, not to mention a statue of Robert Napier on horseback, before passing what was Barkers and turning up Kensington Church Street. We must mention the Churchill Arms (never mind why) which we passed before going left right at Notting Hill to get into Kensington Park Road.

Linda thought that the Hill Nursery was where Princess Diana briefly worked, but I have been unable to verify this. Still, there were some handsome houses and misty square gardens as well as some pretty posh shops, such as 'Their Nibs'. Soon we were heading along Ladbroke Grove, past the Elgin Pub, embellished with a photograph of a horse's head from what we must learn to call the Parthenon Marbles.

Under the Westway we saw a sign to Equal People, which looks to be a very interesting project. Then we were past 'Sylvia's Sainsbury's' and over the still frozen canal to cross the Harrow Road to get into Kilburn Lane. After Kensal Rise Station, we passed the Lexi Cinema and the New Testament Church of God before reaching the end of the route by 11.15, slightly faster than the advertised time, despite pausing once 'to regulate the service'.

The Number 51 Route

Orpington Railway Station to Woolwich
Monday January 12th 2010

Undeterred by the freezing (though technically thawing) conditions, we boarded this bus very neatly at Orpington Station having got ourselves there via a 2 part 208 – a tale for much later. Given the temperature we also ‘hopped on a bus’ back from Perry Hall to Orpington Station. A big Tesco with green aspirations has taken over a prominent corner near the station, the development including flats in red-and-blue colours. Notwithstanding I am sure it has had its usual impact on the already existing businesses.

The High Street was lively with the shoppers pleased to be able to get out – there were still some Christmas offers going and a wide range of charity shops and not a few hairdressers with the usual bad-pun names. All sorts of pets are similarly catered for. We noted the war memorial, and the White Hart, which seemed a pretty little pub that must have once served this High Street when it was more of a village and less just South London spread. We spotted the near-frozen River Cray where it has its source in the Priory Gardens Ponds (it later joins the Darenth and then the Thames) as we left Orpington behind and though I thought we might be bound for a scenic country route along the Cray in fact what followed was industrial estate, light industrial estate and then retail estate!. Also a garden centre offering rock salt, so I expect they were doing good business.

The 51 bus serves St Mary Cray rather than St Paul’s Cray and is the only service along here, apart from one of the special school bus routes. . Kemnal College caught our eye and seems to be run by a Trust, which has taken over previously failing schools in Bromley, Welling and Debden. Speaking of private enterprise we then arrived at Crittalls Corner – which is now part of B&Q but has not been renamed B&Q corner – at the point where we passed under the A20 Sidcup By-Pass. The window factory, as such it is, has now moved to Essex but quite quaintly the name lives on. The route is popular and well-used – we admired someone managing to conduct two mobile phone conversations at once by switching between numbers so hopefully she gave the right road and bus instructions to the right person.

At Sidcup we crossed the London Loop which Jo has walked in her time. Sidcup has quite a long High Street, which might account for some of the shops not being used. About half way along we turned right down the hill for Sidcup Station and what looks like the older parts of Sidcup. There were some very prominent electioneering posters by the station indicating what kind of year 2010 will be, but unless we can show pictures from both main parties we will not show any.

Sidcup kind of merges into Blackfen and Welling through lots of 1930s building of semis, some larger some smaller. The Oval Shopping Parade with its Tudorbethan frontage is now a conservation area. A small sign to 'The Hollies' was a reminder that this was once the site of a huge complex of children’s homes, originally Poor Law, then London County Council and from 1965-1998 Southwark run. It must have seemed a very long way from home for any but the most local children who were placed here, but presumably did offer the benefits of ‘fresh air’ for their health.

Blackfen is what it sounds like – dark wet soil prone to flooding - whence we went on down to Welling: more thirties details evident in the shopping parades as the 51 continues to wend its quite serpentine way back towards Plumstead. The bus has to cope with both hills and valleys while following what must have been old winding lanes, so not an easy route to drive, but its many residents must value it highly. Welling also boasts a Crimean War era Russian cannon (just visible in our photo) as a reminder of the links between Woolwich and Welling, which has in its time housed workers from the ‘Arsenal’. Plumstead Common is pretty extensive and the bus even crosses what looks like a ravine and is known as such locally – Slade’s ponds being part of the natural features – with the snow still on the ground it was difficult to make out details but like much of the trip this was one of the surprises for us. Where we expected more rural out beyond Orpington we had industrial and where we expected inner city we got commons and ponds.

Once again the bus veers off down hill and Plumstead has some hidden gems such as the Crescent where the graciousness of the housing still shines through the later wear and tear. On a good day you can doubtless see North of the River and all its charms but today we turned onto the very busy Plumstead Road and Beresford Street where the bus terminated, having taken the promised 55 minutes for this very unique, and firmly South East London Route.

We were determined to prove that unlike some people who only go swimming when the weather is warm that we are not just fair-weather friends of the buses but by the end we did resemble God’s frozen people.

PS. Today, unusually we had two female drivers in double deckers and our key Number 51 was beautifully driven through its twists and turns with due attention to those passengers still struggling across slush to board it safely.