Lower Sydenham to West
Croydon
Thursday July 14th 2011
Here was one of our more seamless transfers – just crossing
the road – and not much of a wait for a bus that was very popular and full for
all of its route. It was late morning
and many of the passengers had been or were going shopping, living as it later
transpired in parts of London where food shops did not abound.
The single decker heads out of the Sainsbury’s bus stop area
and straight up Sydenham Road, the first of many hills. As we left the gas
holders behind and the smaller cottages
where the gas company workers would
have lived we climbed up the hill towards the highest point in SE London – the
Crystal Palace Hill – which was all part of the Great North Wood (North being
north of Croydon). I had worked in this area (a Children’s hospital absorbed
into Lewisham in 1991) so had often walked up and down watching businesses
grow, flourish and sometimes fail --- or sometimes just change its name. I remember Slatters as the local bakers but
now known as the Cake Store. It continues to provide small and large, and often pink cakes for all.
Sydenham had an illustrious Victorian era when different
musicians would visit George Grove, Master of the Royal College of Music, in
his home and as we passed St Bartholomew’s Church we remembered the wonderful
painting Pissarro made of this solid grey building. It can be seen at the
National Gallery and is much more evocative than this photo! Around the corner is Jew’s Walk, where
Eleanor Marx, the daughter of Karl both lived and died; she committing suicide
following an unsatisfactory relationship but had achieved much politically,
particularly for the trade union movement.
By now, having swept up shoppers the length of Sydenham, we
reached nearly to the crest of the hill and then took a deep downward turn
along Fountain Drive mainly to access the Kingswood Estate – one of Lambeth
Borough’s more inaccessible housing clusters. There are schools and nurseries
round here, and the Paxton Green Health Centre, but if you have moved, or been
moved, from the more bustly north of
the borough it must have seemed very remote. . What goes down must come up and
sure enough having edged its way round the estate the bus then climbs back up
to Crystal Palace Parade via College Road. The one-way system at Crystal Palace
can often be slow but we moved round fairly quickly today noting that yet more
‘Vintage’ outlets had opened – what only a couple of years ago was verging on
the derelict has now become quite vibrant and quirky. A branch of the Blackbird Bakery should thrive here.
We had only just turned left onto Central Hill, noting the
Gypsy Hill Police Station (the highest Met station in London), when a young
woman got on telling the driver that one of the 450s going the other way had
‘knocked a bloke off his bike’ – this came as no surprise to us having seen the
minuscule bike lanes down and up the hills so far. We were pleased to hear that
he’d got up and walked on but not nice for anyone. However the 450 was not to
stay on Central Hill (where lurks a secret bunker apparently) but turned down Hermitage Road.
(The secret bunker, by the way, is not the only dark part of
Lambeth’s history hereabouts: there used to be a notorious children’s home
where the children were not well treated also.)
The Hermitage Road turn-off was to serve a little corner of
Norwood, and serve it did with passengers boarding all around the Upper Norwood
Recreation Ground where the bus does a tour.
Quite remote from railways and busy roads, this seems a quiet area of
what is essentially Inner London. Jo
spotted the Capital Ring Walk signs, which I will leave a more experienced blogger to describe in more detail.
We continued uphill (yes: to use that cliché, this was a
real roller coaster of a ride) crossing Beulah Hill and down the other side
known as Spa Hill. We had just returned from Dorset where out in the country
they warn you of ‘Blind Summits’ and
this was one such. As we descended the hill the houses got much smaller and
more modest – none the less attractive for that – and it was really refreshing
to be approaching Croydon by the back streets in the diamond shaped area
between the more usual main routes.
Beulah Crescent turned out to be two crescents forming a circle – nice
town planning someone.
We did surface briefly, so to speak, at Thornton Heath, where shoppers for Tesco’s (some difference of opinion here – Jo seeming to favour treating Tesco’s name as though a potato plural) got on and off and we passed the station – quite handsome but in need of a little TLC.
We did surface briefly, so to speak, at Thornton Heath, where shoppers for Tesco’s (some difference of opinion here – Jo seeming to favour treating Tesco’s name as though a potato plural) got on and off and we passed the station – quite handsome but in need of a little TLC.
Back in the smaller roads off Belsham Lane we spotted a
rather grand lodge which looked as though it might have been a workhouse but
later research indicated is in fact the lodge entrance (now in private hands)
to Queen’s Road cemetery, the original burial place for the people of Croydon –
now full, so there are no longer burials there.
This last stretch into Croydon proved to be the most tricky
– somewhere along Windmill Road was a major building site and three or four
large lorries were trying to leave, bringing the traffic in what is quite a
narrow stretch to a standstill. The bus was also being bullied by an ice-cream
van, but we eventually succeeded in getting out and turning sharp right at the
major 5 way junction and down the end of Whitehorse Road. The fenced-off empty plot mysteriously
dubbed ‘IYLO’ has, I suspect, gone into administration, so what was planned to
be a 35 storey block has stalled. A nearby cafĂ© called ‘Doodlebuds’ seemed a
good play on words and reminded us of how Croydon had suffered from the
Luftwaffe raids, leading to its characteristic modern rebuilt look….
So there we were, back at West Croydon station just under an
hour from leaving Sydenham and still full of people, which as Mary remarked is
quite unusual as it’s normally only us left to the bitter end – no bitter end
this but a very sweet ending for a charming and useful service.